The wind, clouds and waves are not inviting us to take a bath, so we just go watch the explosive waves and eat.
The wind, clouds and waves are not inviting us to take a bath, so we just go watch the explosive waves and eat.
Aquí los pescadores usan frecuentemente botes redondos. No hay popa ni proa y emplean un solo remo para desplazarse aunque en este caso lleven uno cada uno. Me parece que están hechos de mimbre entrelazado y después recubierto con algo que le da un aspecto brillante y lo hace impermeable. Llevamos varios días en Nha Trang en casa de un gran ex-jugador de rugby. Viene de Texas. Después de dedicarse a dar clases de submarinismo en Hawaii ahora está probando suerte en Vietnam. Tiene alquilada una casa en una calle paralela a la playa. Como lo normal es vivir con toda la familia, aquí las casas son grandes. Esta tiene 4 pisos, con una gran escalera central y dos habitaciones por planta. El alquiler cuesta algo así como 500 Eur al mes.
March 21st. We rent a motorbike. This time it's semi-automatic, with 4 gears. Left foot to change gears, right foot for brakes. First time I use a bike with gears, so I practice in our street first. First we drive to the monkey mountain. Beautiful coast with empty beaches. We see a huge statue and various temples, I believe Buddhist.
Later we enjoy driving kilometers under the sun with almost no traffic, the beach on our left. We reach Marble Mountain. I enjoy the feeling of exploration. No indications about where you can or can not go. No signs about minding your head or about slippery surfaces. We are on our own, in caves you hardly go through, or climbing hundreds of superhuman sized steps. Amazing views from high places and misterious dark caves with Buddha carved in stone. At times it reminds me of images of Avatar, the movie. And outside, like in the movie, hundreds of businesses transforming material extracted from this area, in this case it's marmor that becomes statues of lions, dragons, Buddhas or other white creatures. It makes me wonder of sustainability.
Walk in the beach, A swims, night bike ride and dinner at nice fish restaurant were all employees are around us observing and laughing about what two strange tourists do.
March 20th I walked. I walked for many hours, more than 15 Km. First in the direction of the sea. Right after I crossed a bridge I saw someone arrive with a motorbike, walk to the water and liberate a crab. He left. But then someone tried to capture it. A third person gave indications about the direction the crab went. I was happy because they didn't find him.
When I later reached the beach I walked on the sand. It was quite empty. I saw some kids saying hello and posing for photos. They followed me and laughed when we couldn't communicate and I have no idea what they laughed about. I saw how fishermen worked with small round boats and pulling nets out of the water in teams. Young people who played soccer. I saw small crabs running very fast on the sand for the first time in my life. I ate fish rolled in fresh green leaves.
The most interesting thing I did was daring to walk 100 steps with my eyes closed. It took a few attempts. It was sunset time, I was alone, far from my hotel and far from home.
No elephant required.
Today was one of the days I enjoyed most in my visit to Asia. I saw several beautiful places far away from people.
I had heard about some waterfalls and a marble elephant. We rode the bike back in direction Hue. We tried to explain "waterfall" with gestures. I drew an funny elephant on a paper. We were given some directions. We drove on tiny roads that I thought would not take us anywhere. Rice fields, chicken, dogs and some kids saying hello. We hiked in a path with orange dirt. I wondered about land mines. Then this transparent water flowing down from the clouds on the hills, and huge round rocks. Few people building wood platforms on the sides of this river. A guy moving a large rock with chains and a manual mechanism.
We couldn't find waterfalls or elephants, but when I sat down I knew I had found what I wanted. I was far away from people and cities, sitting on a big rock with my eyes closed, hearing loud water sounds all around me. The wind in my face suddenly reminded me of the nature in Finland and all kinds of good feelings related to nature.
A big butterfly with amazing metallic blue wings landed near us to have some of our sugar cane. When not flying it looked like a dry leave, hiding all its beauty.
Later on the same day, we crossed the dunes and saw the Pacific ocean. Kilometers of sand hidden in clouds generated by the waves. Alone in that beach, mountains with clouds below them. Even the plastic trash on the sand looked beautiful at that moment.
Then we leave and start driving towards Da Nang. Trucks and cars go through the tunnel, so this beautiful curvy road is again just for us. Trees are impossibly green. We drive into the clouds. Cliffs, rocks and sand in the horizon. Curve after curve our deposit is getting empty and we are getting colder and colder, but the feeling of astonishment is stronger.
Like every day, we arrive to a new unknown place.
We decided to rent the same scooter again to go south. The owner will pick it up from Da Nang next Sunday. Two persons, three backpacks and a violin. Cold. I wore two t-shirts, a shirt, two sweatshirts, a second hand coat I got yesterday and the plastic raincoat on top. Socks on my hands acting as gloves. Beautiful green hills with clouds pouring from the top. Trying to explain a woman in a road restaurant what we want to eat. We give a mango to her boy. Trucks driving in parallel towards us. Cows crossing the road. Very loud truck horns. Dunes and a lake full of fishermen. We see a hotel and stop there. The hotel is empty. All hotels look empty. This is a tourist area in low season. We have dinner in one of the empty restaurants. A young man shows us his currency collection. We bring him coins from various countries and he seems happy. This is a small village on a road where nothing happens and all know each other. The young man lives and works with his family. He invites us to the pub where a good dj mixes extremely loud techno music. He says people go there to have a coffee. He wants to travel, maybe work in a boat to see the world. Korean videoclips on tv after the dj is done. Local beer. I have the feeling today I saw some bits of real life in Vietnam.
One month ago we flew from Berlin to Moscow. It's been one month already! We spent three weeks in different parts of India. We used trains to move from city to city. Inside cities we walked, used tram, metro, rickshaw, motorickshaw, bus, motorbike and even a carriage pulled by horses.
A week ago we flew to Vietnam via bangkok. We spent the first days in Hanoi with a friendly young family who lived in the 7th floor of a building. They show us photos, told us about their life, drove us around and invited us to their typical noodle breakfast. Hanoi felt quieter and the traffic smoother than in Indian cities, but the air equally polluted. It was surprising to see roundabouts with a hundred motorbikes entering and leaving and no one honking, like a huge coordinated choreography. We planned different ways to go from Hanoi (north) to Ho Chi Minh City (south, about 1800 Km away). One of our plans was to rent a bike, but watching the rush hour in Hanoi, together with the fact I never drove a semi-automatic bike before, and the falling rain made us decide the bus was a better option. Told like this it sounds easy, but we spent a lot of times looking at bikes to buy, at how we could fit our stuff in it, at bikes to rent...
In any case, we got an open bus ticket that allows us to stay as long as we want on the various stops and continue the trip a few days later. Our first stop is at a place called Hue. As usually in our trip, we had no idea what we would find in this city. We carry no Lonely Planet and no other guides. My phone is being a useful tool though. I use the map, google, wikipedia and the translator to communicate with people when gestures are not enough :)
Today we rented a motorbike and spent hours driving around. It was very interesting to explore the area. By foot it would take much longer. The zero-bureacracy bike renting was amazing. Basically, this guy we met on the street gave us his scooter for 100.000 dong, about 3 eur, and told us to call him back when we are done in the evening. He didn't even know where we stay or our names. Nice smily guy. We are thinking of more driving tomorrow, but it depends on the weather.
It surprised me during our driving to see huge cemeteries in green hills full of plants. Cemeteries bigger than they should be for a place with such a small population.
I like to eat where local people do. Sometimes we've gone for touristy pizza or burger, but it doesn't feel right. People from here would rarely go to such places. An improvised plastic tent in a corner with tiny plastic chairs and a meal for 20.000 dong (rich tourist price, I guess) is much more unique.
Tomorrow we will somehow get to Da Nang.